The many benefits of rethinking sauerkraut.

“Why raw sauerkraut?” was the question on a jar at the Berkeley farmers market. “It’s alive!” was the answer. “Rethink sauerkraut,” the label also encouraged.

Well, why not. I hadn’t known that sau­erkraut was lacto-fermented, thus a natural probiotic. This little jar was packed with bil­lions of beneficial microorganisms, most notably Lactobacillus plantarum, a plant-based relative of the more commonly known Lactobacillus acidophilus. Vibrant energy ran through my body with the first crunchy bite of sour, juicy cabbage. I was ready to rethink sauerkraut.

“Historically, people have eaten ferment­ed foods at every meal for centuries,” says Alex Hozven. She is the owner of Cultured, a homegrown company that has been making artisan batches of raw sauerkraut and other pickled goodies for more than ten years.

“Many countries in Asia and Europe have strong traditions of fermenting wide variet­ies of vegetables with spices and herbs. Our ‘cultureless’ culture is beginning to understand the importance of fermented foods,” Alex says with satisfaction. Other entrepreneurs agree: Rejuvenative Foods, a Santa Cruz company, makes delicious organic raw sauerkraut that is distributed nationwide.

Nourishing Traditions author Sally Fallon describes ancient knowledge of symbiotic relationships with our microscopic world. “Greeks understood the important chemical changes that took place during fermentation, calling it ‘alchemy,’” she notes.

Along with helpful enzymes that enhance digestibility and increase vitamin levels, fermented foods have antibiotic and anti-car­cinogenic substances.

Nutritionist and author Donna Gates makes a bold connection between passing yeast to an infant during birth and an in­creased risk of autism. “When a woman has Candida, she can infect her baby, without any visible symptoms,” she warns.

Gates strongly recommends cultured foods so that “pregnant women can ensure they have healthy bacteria in their birth canal to inoculate their newborn babies.”

She also suggests giving a newborn cul­tured vegetable juice to relieve colic and con­stipation and to ensure a healthy digestive ecosystem and immune system. Finally, the answer to why I craved pickles when I was pregnant! My body was sending me a message to establish more baby-friendly flora.

“Finally, the answer to why

I craved pickles when I was pregnant.”

Cultured products have been garnering public approval due to exciting rediscoveries about their long-lasting health benefits. Hozven observes that the kombucha phenomenon is “in full swing,” noting the rise in popularity of the unusual fermented beverage. “I’m trying to fuse all of these ideas into a re-understand­ing of the pickle and its place in the modern diet,” she says.

Using fresh organic cabbage along with synergistic herbs, spices, and sea vegetables, Hozven creates vibrant living foods that satis­fy traditional and fringe palettes alike. “I love the idea of super-food nutrition that’s low on the food chain, and of making it in an ecologi­cally sustainable way.”

When asked how people are incorporat­ing her products into their daily diet, Hozvendeclines to set any culinary rules. “Sour adds that ‘up’ note to savory fats such as meats, nuts, avocados, and of course, hot dogs,” she says with a laugh.

Hozven’s clients are an eclectic lot, ranging from traditionalists who slather vintage kraut on knockwurst to rogue epicureans and raw foodies who create fantastical concoctions with fiery kimchi or fennel beet salad. And how does Alex eat it? “By the spoonful or as a condiment, every day with every meal.”

As Cultured has grown, the transition from small ceramic crockery to pressure- and temperature-controlled wine fermenta­tion tanks assures consistency and quality. Moving from forty jars a week to over onethousand, Hozven has shifted into a heavier production schedule with ease.

“The right environment creates a pure culture,” she notes. “Vibrant and acidic.” And by right, she means the whole recipe: from the beautiful new kitchen/office space she designed to like-minded employees and organic produce.

Inside a cool steel room, 50 cocoon-like tanks are silent, yet feel alive. Hozven, impish and seeming ageless, tips her head towards them.

“Sometimes I turn off the lights at night and listen. You can hear it gurgle and bubble at you,” she whispers lovingly.

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For more information, visit: rejuvenative.com

Going Pro(biotic)

MISO: Soybeans along with other grains such as barley or rice are fermented for years in wooden vats to create a thick paste, prized for its antiviral and alkalizing ben­efits. A staple in Japan for centuries, miso is high in protein, vitamins, and minerals. It adds flavor and depth to soups, sauces, and vegetables. Miso is an especially good choice in the winter months when the body can absorb more salts.